Gerbil Care
About: The Mongolian gerbil is the most common domestic gerbil. Their life span is typically 3-4 years. They are social beings and do their best in pairs or groups of the same sex. They are diurnal meaning they have the same sleep/wake cycle as humans, most active during the day and sleep at night. They are a species of rodents, often similar in size to a degu or Syrian hamster. They are also very fast - so it could be more difficult for children to handle them.
Social Needs: As stated, gerbils are social beings and do best in pairs/groups! Sterilizing gerbils is not a very common practice so it is suggested to keep gerbils in same sex hordes. Littermates or gerbils who grew up together often do well together. You should never stick two gerbils in a cage together and think they will get along! Introductions should take place over time. Like people, there's no guarantee they will bond!
Housing: Gerbils need a deep enclosure that will allow them to burrow and dig! The minimum for a single gerbil would be a 20-gallon long tank. For 2-3 gerbils, the minimum is a 40 gallon breeder tank (648 square inches of unbreakable floor space). Hordes of 4+ gerbils, you would need to add 200+ square inches (10+ gallons).
Environment: Gerbils ideal temperature is between 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit. They are accustomed to dry climates and are sensitive to high humidity, so the best humidity is between 35-50%. They should also have natural light to showcase a typical day/night cycle. But this does not mean they should be in direct sunlight. Gerbils are also sensitive to high frequency sounds (TVs, radios, vacuums) and do best in a calm less-frequented area of the home. Since they are prey animals, their enclosure should be locked, secure, and kept away from pedatory animals such as cats/dogs.
Cage Set Up: They should have a minimum of eight inches (10+ is ideal) of bedding to burrow in! A mixture of paper bedding and aspen shavings is a great option that provides variety and texture. They are nesting animals that will create nests and dens. Adding hay and other items that can be shredded and used for a nest are highly suggested. Options include straw, wood, paper, hay, cardboard. All cage accessories should be ceramic or wood, no plastic. Gerbils will chew everything! Wood hides and wood wheels. No metal grid wheels. Having a variety of chew toys available and switched out on a regular basis is important to provide stimulation and enrichment. Tunnels and opportunities to climb also are great.
Diet: Gerbils are omnivores, they eat both plants and animals. They should eat a high protein lab block/pellet diet. Although most marketed food advertise seed mixes for gerbils, they are high in fat and are not nutritionally balanced. Fresh food can also be fed, such as fresh fruits, veggies, or proteins (cooked egg, mealworms, broccoli, carrot, apples, blueberries, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds). Similar to hamsters, they hoard their food so it is best not to feed them every day, since they will just continue adding to their stash, which means their stash will need to be cleaned more often, and any fresh food needs to be removed daily. We suggest scatter feeding their food, as it encourages them to forage as well as decreases fighting if food is just left in a bowl. And always ensure fresh water is available at all times (glass water bottles).
Maintenance: Because they spend all day running around and digging in their own waste, their bedding should be replaced regularly. We suggest switching out portions of their bedding every 3-4 days.
Social Needs: As stated, gerbils are social beings and do best in pairs/groups! Sterilizing gerbils is not a very common practice so it is suggested to keep gerbils in same sex hordes. Littermates or gerbils who grew up together often do well together. You should never stick two gerbils in a cage together and think they will get along! Introductions should take place over time. Like people, there's no guarantee they will bond!
Housing: Gerbils need a deep enclosure that will allow them to burrow and dig! The minimum for a single gerbil would be a 20-gallon long tank. For 2-3 gerbils, the minimum is a 40 gallon breeder tank (648 square inches of unbreakable floor space). Hordes of 4+ gerbils, you would need to add 200+ square inches (10+ gallons).
Environment: Gerbils ideal temperature is between 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit. They are accustomed to dry climates and are sensitive to high humidity, so the best humidity is between 35-50%. They should also have natural light to showcase a typical day/night cycle. But this does not mean they should be in direct sunlight. Gerbils are also sensitive to high frequency sounds (TVs, radios, vacuums) and do best in a calm less-frequented area of the home. Since they are prey animals, their enclosure should be locked, secure, and kept away from pedatory animals such as cats/dogs.
Cage Set Up: They should have a minimum of eight inches (10+ is ideal) of bedding to burrow in! A mixture of paper bedding and aspen shavings is a great option that provides variety and texture. They are nesting animals that will create nests and dens. Adding hay and other items that can be shredded and used for a nest are highly suggested. Options include straw, wood, paper, hay, cardboard. All cage accessories should be ceramic or wood, no plastic. Gerbils will chew everything! Wood hides and wood wheels. No metal grid wheels. Having a variety of chew toys available and switched out on a regular basis is important to provide stimulation and enrichment. Tunnels and opportunities to climb also are great.
Diet: Gerbils are omnivores, they eat both plants and animals. They should eat a high protein lab block/pellet diet. Although most marketed food advertise seed mixes for gerbils, they are high in fat and are not nutritionally balanced. Fresh food can also be fed, such as fresh fruits, veggies, or proteins (cooked egg, mealworms, broccoli, carrot, apples, blueberries, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds). Similar to hamsters, they hoard their food so it is best not to feed them every day, since they will just continue adding to their stash, which means their stash will need to be cleaned more often, and any fresh food needs to be removed daily. We suggest scatter feeding their food, as it encourages them to forage as well as decreases fighting if food is just left in a bowl. And always ensure fresh water is available at all times (glass water bottles).
Maintenance: Because they spend all day running around and digging in their own waste, their bedding should be replaced regularly. We suggest switching out portions of their bedding every 3-4 days.
Disclaimer: Any information posted on Lala's Playhouse and Rescue's website is for general information purposes only and should not be used as medical advice, medical opinion, diagnosis, or treatment. Any information given is not to be substituted for medical attention. Always seek licensed veterinary care for your pet's health and treatment. All information on this website is given "as-is." Lala's Playhouse and Rescue is not liable for any direct, indirect, incidental, punitive, or consequential damages of any kind whatsoever with respect to the use of this website. You agree that you are using this website solely at your own risk.
