Ball Python
About: Ball Pythons are native to Africa. If they were in the wild, they would spend their days slithering through grass, woodlands, farms, and exploring areas to burrow. Their average lifespan is between 20-40 years and are a long commitment. They are one of the most common breeds bred to be pets. They are known for having such a large variety of colors and patterns. Did you know there are about 6500 known morphs?
Housing: The minimum enclosure size recommended for an adult ball python would be a 40 gallon breeder tank. Baby snakes can be housed in 20 gallon tanks and increase their tank size as they grow. Female ball pythons tend to be larger than males. Snakes can stress themselves in cages that are too large so they do not require very large enclosures. There are many different items sold at pet stores marketed for reptiles but are actually not safe. We are fans of doing what you can to replicate your snake's natural environment. Your enclosure should also have areas to hide as well as branches and leaves for your snake to be able to climb over. Never house ball pythons together.
Lighting: Ball pythons are crepuscular which means they are most active at dawn and dusk. It is best to provide lightning that would be natural to reflecting the day/night cycle.
Temperature: Because snakes are cold-blooded, they need to have an enclosure that will assist in helping them regulate their body temperature. Their enclosure should have a warm side and a cool side. The warm side should be between 90-95 degrees F and the cool side should be between 75-80 degrees F. The best way to check the temperature of their cage is using a temp gun. Their cage also needs to be kept at a humidity of 55-65% (but as long as it is kept between 40-80% it is acceptable).
Diet: Snakes are obligate carnivores. They must eat whole animals and there is nothing that can replace that. Based on the weight of your snake, the size of prey will vary as well as how often you must feed them. The larger the snake, the longer it takes for their body to digest therefore the longer they go between meals. Typically for an adult ball python, they eat every 8-16 days. It is best to feed your snake inside their enclosure. There is a variety in what you can feed your ball python such as African soft furs, chicks, rats, quail, and Reptilinks. We recommend feeding frozen thawed and never feeding live prey (as it can cause injuries to both the prey and the snake). Be sure to always keep a water dish available in their enclosure at all times.
Shedding: Ball pythons shed between 4-12 times a year. The younger they are, the more they are likely to shed. If your snake is struggling to shed, you can help them by increasing their humidity, let them soak in a warm bath, or use a warm damp paper towel to let them slither against to help them shed.
Do Not Handle your snake after 48 hours of feeding as this can cause regurgitation. It is also very stressful to them and can lead to death. Do not handle your snake if their eyes start to become cloudy as they are preparing to shed and cannot see well. This can make them more jumpy than usual and more likely to bite out of self-defense.
Housing: The minimum enclosure size recommended for an adult ball python would be a 40 gallon breeder tank. Baby snakes can be housed in 20 gallon tanks and increase their tank size as they grow. Female ball pythons tend to be larger than males. Snakes can stress themselves in cages that are too large so they do not require very large enclosures. There are many different items sold at pet stores marketed for reptiles but are actually not safe. We are fans of doing what you can to replicate your snake's natural environment. Your enclosure should also have areas to hide as well as branches and leaves for your snake to be able to climb over. Never house ball pythons together.
Lighting: Ball pythons are crepuscular which means they are most active at dawn and dusk. It is best to provide lightning that would be natural to reflecting the day/night cycle.
Temperature: Because snakes are cold-blooded, they need to have an enclosure that will assist in helping them regulate their body temperature. Their enclosure should have a warm side and a cool side. The warm side should be between 90-95 degrees F and the cool side should be between 75-80 degrees F. The best way to check the temperature of their cage is using a temp gun. Their cage also needs to be kept at a humidity of 55-65% (but as long as it is kept between 40-80% it is acceptable).
Diet: Snakes are obligate carnivores. They must eat whole animals and there is nothing that can replace that. Based on the weight of your snake, the size of prey will vary as well as how often you must feed them. The larger the snake, the longer it takes for their body to digest therefore the longer they go between meals. Typically for an adult ball python, they eat every 8-16 days. It is best to feed your snake inside their enclosure. There is a variety in what you can feed your ball python such as African soft furs, chicks, rats, quail, and Reptilinks. We recommend feeding frozen thawed and never feeding live prey (as it can cause injuries to both the prey and the snake). Be sure to always keep a water dish available in their enclosure at all times.
Shedding: Ball pythons shed between 4-12 times a year. The younger they are, the more they are likely to shed. If your snake is struggling to shed, you can help them by increasing their humidity, let them soak in a warm bath, or use a warm damp paper towel to let them slither against to help them shed.
Do Not Handle your snake after 48 hours of feeding as this can cause regurgitation. It is also very stressful to them and can lead to death. Do not handle your snake if their eyes start to become cloudy as they are preparing to shed and cannot see well. This can make them more jumpy than usual and more likely to bite out of self-defense.
Resources/References:
- The BioDude - Ball Python Care Guide
- BHB Reptiles - Ball Python Care Sheet
- Reptiles Magazine - Ball Python Care Sheet
- Reptifiles - Ball Python Care Guide
Disclaimer: Any information posted on Lala's Playhouse and Rescue's website is for general information purposes only and should not be used as medical advice, medical opinion, diagnosis, or treatment. Any information given is not to be substituted for medical attention. Always seek licensed veterinary care for your pet's health and treatment. All information on this website is given "as-is." Lala's Playhouse and Rescue is not liable for any direct, indirect, incidental, punitive, or consequential damages of any kind whatsoever with respect to the use of this website. You agree that you are using this website solely at your own risk.
